X 




PBIOE 25 CZEOsTTS. 



AMATEUR 



YACHTING. 





Q f 



1886. 

B, F. ADAMS, PUBLISHER, 

112 South Seventh St., 

Philadelphia. 



Entered according to the Act of Congress in the year 1886, by 

B. F. AMMSjZ/ 
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington. 



PREFACE. 



The writer hopes this little book will be of interest not 
only to those who intend to indulge in the healthy, exhilera- 
ting sport of yachting but also to those who would like to 
gain a knowledge of the principles of sailing, through the 
interest created by the international yacht races. 

The directions for sailing and managing a cabin yacht 
are for beginners, and, as far as possible, such plain words 
have been used as will enable embryo yachtsmen to follow 
the directions without confusion, while a short dictionary 
of technical words has also been added for convenience. 

Yachting, besides being beneficial to health, develops 
the judgment, schools a man into acting promptly in cases 
of emergency, and increases his self-reliance. It is of benefit 
not only to the individual, but also to the community. 

The National Guard, is useful as a school for drilling 
our citizens into a body of soldiery, so that in the event of 
disturbances in our own country or of war with foreign 
countries we would be able to present a large body of well- 
drilled men without having in the meantime to support 
an expensive standing army. England has earned her 

III 



supremacy on the sea by the size and power of her navy. 
Why should not America increase her power on the sea I 
The answer of many is that the United States has within her 
borders many acres that want cultivation, many resources 
that can be developed. This is true enough, but would it 
not be safer for us Americans living near the seacoast to 
encourage the development of a taste for aquatic sports, so 
that in the event of threatened war by any of the great 
powers on the other side of the ocean the Government could 
call on thousands of young men to man the ships of a navy 
that is slowly but surely increasing, as the Government now 
calls on the National Guard in the time of a threatened not/ 
These young yachtsmen would not be skilled men-of- 
war's men, but they would be vastly superior to men that 
have no knowledge of matters aquatic. 

Although these few pages treat only of the rudiments 
of yachting, the writer has added an outline history of the 
representative club of Philadelphia, the Quaker City Yacht 
Club, thinking it would be of interest to yachtsmen and 
others Thanks are due to the officers of the club for infor- 
mation on this subject, particularly to Asst. Secretary R. W. 
Kerswell. fi F A 



CONTENTS. 



Yachts of the Delaware, 7 

The Quaker City Yacht Club, 12 

Getting Under Way 

.15 

Reducing Sail, 

25 

Sailing at Night, QQ 

Anchoring, 

Co 

The Yacht's Tender, 46 

Wintering, 

50 

The 11th Annual Regatta Quaker City Yacht Club, 54 
Dictionary of Nautical Teems, 61 



YACHTS OF THE DELAWARE. 



The sloop rig is the favorite with Delaware River 
yachtsmen for their decked vessels. With the exception of 
two schooners which have been added to the flotilla of the 
Quaker City Yacht Club this season the entire fleet of cabin 
yachts of this club are sloop rigged. The advantages that 
the sloop has of lying closer to the wind when close hauled 
and of being handled by a smaller crew are evidently the 
cause of the preponderance of sloop yachts over others. 

Cutter and yawl rigs are seldom seen on the Delaware. 
The principal difference between a cutter and a sloop is that 
the former has an adjustable bowsprit, which can be re- 
duced in length by being drawn in on deck during rough 
weather, thereby decreasing the strain that a long spar 
causes when the vessel is pitching and rolling in a heavy 
sea, and also permitting her bows to ride higher so as to 
more successfully meet the waves when lying to under re- 
duced canvas. 

In the yawl-rigged vessel the main boom is so short that 
the after end clears a small mizzen mast stepped in the 
extreme stern of the vessel, which carries, as a gen- 

7 



8 TA CHTS OF THE DEL A WARE. 

eral rule, a spritsail that extends over the water astern 
as far or further than does the exceedingly long 
boom of the sloop or cutter. Although to a novice this 
rig may appear complicated, it is claimed to be easily 
handled, as the mizzen sail generally takes care of itself 
when going about. 

A light framework extends beyond the stern. To 
the end of this a block is attached through which 
the mizzen sheet is reeved and lead in on deck and 
belayed to a cleat alongside the steersman, where he 
can trim the mizzen sail without moving from the 
helm. By removing the sprit, the lower end of which 
rests in a grommet attached to the mast and the upper end 
of which is inserted in another grommet worked in the peak 
of the mizzen sail, canvas can be reduced very quickly and 
without even disturbing the halliards of the mainsail. To 
reduce sail on a sloop is a much more difficult proceeding 
for two or three men, while to one man it is almost an im- 
possibility when a stiff breeze is blowing. 

The yawl rig is very convenient for handling, as pre- 
paration can be made for an approaching squall in one or 
two minutes by one person only, and it is also an excellent 
rig for rough, rolling weather in the bay or on the ocean, 
aa the leverage and strain on the mast and deck are not near 
so great as on a vessel with a long main boom. 

For these reasons the yawl rig is very suitable for a 
yacht intended for cruising and which occasionally has to be 



YACHTS OF THE DELAWARE. 



managed by a small crew. Two men or even a man and a 
boy can sail such a yacht in comparative safety at sea, but 
for racing purposes this rig has the same disadvantages that 
the schooner has in comparison with the sloop and cutter — 
the sails are too much cut up. While sailing close to the 
wind this objection is most apparent, for a vessel carrying a 
large mainsail can be trimmed down closer than can one 
that has the same number of square feet of canvas divided 
into two sails. 

Yachting, simply as a pleasure and a means of recrea- 
tion, should be done in a cabin yacht. There is a great deal 
of excitement in sailing an open boat in a stiff breeze, lying 
out over the side and holding on by the life lines, but not 
much comfort, and the drenching and sitting for hours in 
the wind while acting as living ballast is not very favorable 
for health. A ballasted cabin yacht of small size is much 
more suitable for a cruising boat. A centre board sloop 
yacht of twenty-five feet length is a convenient size for from 
two to six, and, if sleeping accommodations are not taken in 
consideration, fifteen or more could be carried. The follow- 
ing directions apply to a yacht of this style and size. A jib 
and mainsail will be sufficient sail, but if the yacht has a 
topmast a topsail can be set in addition. Spinnaker, square 
sail and jib topsail may be omitted as they are of not much 
practical use on a small sloop during a cruise and only 
complicate matters for beginners. 

The yachts of the Delaware Kiver outside of the Quaker 



10 YACHTS OF TEE DELAWARE. 

City Yacht Club are, with a very few exceptions, open 
boats. The larger ones are decked over for about one-quar- 
ter of the length from the bows, about a foot inside of the 
gunwale along the sides, and two feet or more at the stern 5 
the mast carries a single large sail, gaff and boom, and is 
stepped close up in the bow and stayed from a short bow- 
sprit forward, and also by side stays that lead to stout 
timbers which project three or four feet over the water from 
the deck at the foot of the mast. These are the cat boats, 
presumably called so from the arrangement of the stays on 
the above mentioned beams, as timbers somewhat similar 
and in the same position on large vessels are called catheads. 
The catheads of a ship are only used in connection with a 
small tackle to hang the anchors by their rings. 

A smaller boat, generally fifteen to seventeen feet long, 
is the tuckup. This has no catheads, the mast is set further 
back, and the beam is not so great as in the cat boat. The 
decking extends along each gunwale and runs out to the 
square stern, leaving that portion undecked. The smallest 
of all are the double-end gunning skiffs, rigged very similar 
to the tuckups. 

All of these boats have centre-boards, those of the cat 
boats hinged, while the smaller ones lift bodily from the 
well, and all have immense rudders. Whenever there is a 
stiff breeze the crew sit up on the decking and gunwale, 
hold on to the life lines (short pieces of rope fastened 
securely to the bottom of the boat inside along the well, the 



YACHTS OF THE DELAWARE. 11 

free ends having wooden cross handles attached) and then 
lean backward over the water as the gusts of wind strike 
the sail, quickly recovering their upright position during 
the lulls. 

The owners of many of the above described boats are or. 
ganized into two clubs, the Pennsylvania and the Southwark. 

The sixth annual regatta of the Pennsylvania Yacht 
Club came off on May 31, 1886. The start was from Ken- 
sington Water Works wharf. The course was to Delanco 
and return. The race was very quiet at the beginning, but 
the breeze sprang up shortly after and one of the boats 
carried away a stay. The first boat in was the William A. 
Birch; second, the David Bennet; and third, Little Tycoon. 

On June 7th, 1886, the twelfth annual regatta of the 
Southwark Yacht Club occured, Dickinson Street wharf to 
Chester buoy and return was the course. The Maid was 
ahead until the buoy was turned when she capsized, and the 
J. Mitchel came in first. H. D. Board man was the first 
boat of the second class, while the Addie was second. The 
third class was led by the Thomas Ledyard, the Hugh Boyl 
and Charles Benton following. The J. Nobre, the Joseph 
Jacobs and the Amanda C, of the fourth class reached home 
in the order named. 



THE QUAKER CITY YACHT CLUB. 



In January of the Centennial year a number of gentle- 
men fond of aquatic sports got together and formed the 
Philadelphia Yacht Club, with headquarters at 1215 Beach 
Street, Philadelphia. At the February meeting of the same 
year the name was changed to Quaker City Yacht Club, and 
at this meeting the following officers were elected: Com- 
modore, Thomas T. Wills; vice commodore, A. Bancroft; 
rear commodore, S. Taylor; president, Joseph L. Wills; sec- 
retary^. S. Salin; assistant secretary, Mr. Somers; treas- 
urer, L. B. Boyd. 

The following named sloop yachts were enrolled : Sam- 
uel Josephs, Phantom, Charles Austin, Kingston, Goddard, 
W. Tell, Stella, Tacon, Lillie, Ella, Gideon Clarke, Lewes, 
Columbia, White Wing. 

The trustees elected on March 8, 1876, were: Eobert 
Baird, N. B. Boyd, D. W. Murphy and Thomas Eobinson; 
the regatta committee were: John S. Pomeroy, F. Coleman 
and Albert Dager. The first regatta of the club was held 
on May 31, 1876, at which four prizes, valued at $60, were 
awarded. Of the nine yachts that participated the W. Tell 

12 



THE QUAKER CITY YACHT CLUB. 13 

came in first and the Coquette second, in the first class, 
while the Lillie and Stella were first and second in the second 
class. 

About two years after organization the club moved their 
headquarters to Windmill Island, and shortly after that they 
removed to New Market and Brown Streets, Philadelphia. 
In 1882, they made their final move to the Market Street 
ferry house, Camden, and held their first meeting in the 
comfortable quarters on November 16 of that year. William 
Post was then president. 

The officers for the present year, 1886, are: Com- 
modore, Charles E.Ellis; vice commodore, Thomas S. Man- 
ning; rear commodore, Charles L. Wilson; president, Dr. 
W. H. Vallette; secretary, W. S. Hoffman; treasurer, S P. 
Wright; assistant secretary, R. W. Kerswell; measurer, R. 
G. Wilkins. Board of Trustees— H. D. Walls, R. P. 
Thompson, S. A. Wood, T. S. Manning. Regatta Com- 
mittee— H. Clay Funk, W. J. Walker, E. A. Hildebrand, R. 
M. Fitch, Jr., Oswald McAllister and S. P. Wright. 

Every year since the organization of the club a regatta 
has been held at the opening of the yachting season, about 
the first of June, and the prizes for the winning yachts have 
increased in beauty and value, those for the Eleventh ^An- 
nual Regatta being: 

Schooner class — Fine nickle plated clock. 

First class sloops — For the first a taffrail log, and for 
the second a swinging ice pitcher and goblet. 



14 THE QUAKER CITY YACHT CLUB. 

Second class sloops — Binnacle and compass. 

Third class sloops — The first a champion flag; second, 
American yacht ensign, and third, a cabin light. 

Fifth class — A champion flag. There were no fourth 
class entries. The above are the regular club prizes, while a 
number of handsome special prizes were given by several 
members of the club. These were: 

The Charles D. Middleton Challenge Cup, for first class 
sloops, won by Venitzia, this is of solid silver. 

The Commodore Charies E. Ellis Challenge Cup, solid 
silver, for the yacht making fastest time ever made over the 
course, won by Venitzia. 

The Commodore W. H. Vallette Challenge Cup, for 
second class sloops, won by Consort, solid silver. 

All of the above prizes are of solid silver and are very 
handsome. Each of them have to be won three times in suc- 
cession to be held perpetually by the winner. 



GETTING UNDER WAY. 



On the young yachtsman's first attempt to manage a 
sloop he should have a companion to assist. We will sup- 
pose the vessel to be anchored at some distance from other 
vessels, so there will be no danger of collision through in- 
experience. If the yacht is anchored in a moderately 
strong tide-way and there is delay in getting headway 
after the anchor is loosened, she is in danger of drifting 
into other vessels or wharves, or of running ashore, unless 
the attempt is made during slack water, or at the change 
of tide — of the two changes of tide that 
from high to low is the best, for then the 
water is deepest and there is less danger 
of running aground. A moderate breeze 
off shore and flood tide just finished make CL0VE hit ch. 
the best combination of circumstances to get successfully 
under way. After rowing to the yacht, the painter, or rope 
attached to the bow of the skiff, should be made fast to a 
ringbolt or cleat, which, as a rule, is bolted to the deck 
aft of the rudder post. The yachtsman should not make a 
clumsy knot, but should fasten the painter by making a 
clove hitch. 

15 




16 GETTING UNDER WAY. 

If the sloop has been left in order the mainsail will be 
found neatly tied down to the boom by canvas strips, or sail 
stops, and the boom supported near its after end by a truss. 
The truss should be removed by lifting the boom, when 
that spar will be supported by the topping lift, or the rope 
leading from the masthead to the end of the boom. The sail 
stops should next be untied and placed with the truss and 
other loose articles in the cabin, as the cockpit should be 
kept clear, to prevent the sheet from fouling. If the yacht 
is not provided with a steering wheel, the tiller, or handle for 
the rudder, should be gotten from the cabin and inserted in 
the mortice in the rudder-head. While one is doing this 
his companion can be casting loose the jib, which is gener- 
ally tied down not by removable sail stops, but by short 
pieces of thick twine or marlin, fastened at one end with 
small staples in pairs on each side of the bowsprit. They 
are tied over the sail when it is lowered, but when loosened 
hang on both sides of the bowsprit. If these are untied 
carefully the jib will lie in a flat roll, without falling over- 
board. 

If the jib sheets are led aft to the cockpit for con- 
venience of working, the ends should be slightly fastened to 
their respective cleats. The main sheet should be neatly 
coiled in the centre of the cockpit floor, commencing the 
coil not from the free end, but from the part nearest 
to the boom, and the coil turned over so as to allow 
it to run free. This rope is quite long and is apt to 



GETTING UNDER WAY. 



17 



get tangled, which may cause a capsize. It is a bad plan 
to make fast to a cleat the main sheet of a small yacht. 

While waiting for a breeze the young yachtsman 
is apt to make the sheets fast, abandon the helm and seek 
shelter from a scorch- 
ing sun under shadow 
of the sails, or, perhaps, 
in the cabin. Even 
while undergoing the 
annoyance and discom- 
fort of being broiled in 
the sun he had better ^ _ 

keep one hand on the ^~ ^:^f , 

tiller and the other on 
the free end of the 
main sheet, as a sudden 

gust may capsize the bowsprit and jib. 

boat if an unballasted one, or even one that is lightly 
ballasted, as small light-draft cabin yachts usually are. 

As the yacht in the present instance is supposed to 
be some distance from other vessels the anchor can be 
raised before the mainsail is hoisted, but the best plan gen- 
erally, and the only one when she is surrounded by a fleet, 
of other yachts, or when the wind is blowing on shore, is to 
make sail and then weigh anchor. Not only is this form of 
getting under way frequently necessary, but it is most 




18 GETTING UNDER WAY. 

yachtsmanlike. The proceedings are as follows: If the 
yacht is simply anchored and riding with a long chain 
or cable, this should be shortened by hauling in until 
she is directly over the anchor. To fasten the chain at 
that length, three or four turns should be given around the 
knighthead, the last or topmost crossing under the one 
below it, as represented in the cut. If she is riding at moor- 
ings the chain is cast off from the yacht and remains sup- 
ported by a buoy until the yacht's return. 

Sail should be hoisted after shortening the chain, first 
the mainsail by the throat and peak halliards; then the jib by 
means of the jib halliard, making it secure to its proper 
cleat, but leaving the sheets loose. The 
throat halliard, which is most instrumental 
in hoisting the mainsail, is attached to the 
gaff at the throat, that is the part nearest 
knighthead. the mast, and, after being reeved through 
blocks both on gaff and masthead, passes down along the 
port side of the mast and is fastened to a cleat on that 
side, or, what is better in a small yacht, it is led back 
over the trunk by passing through a small brass pulley 
screwed to the deck, to the cockpit, where the slack 
can be taken in and where it is belayed to a cleat on the 
port side of the trunk. 

The peak halliard, which is to raise the outer end or 
peak of the mainsail and make the sail lie as flat as possible, 
is fastened to a cleat in a corresponding position on the 




GETTING UNDER WAY. 19 

starboard side, and the slack of this must be taken in at the 
same time as is that of the throat halliard, but not so rapidly 
as to raise the peak of the gaff above the level of the 
throat, as by so doing the gaff is apt to become jammed. 

Kemember, the mainsheet should be perfectly loose while 
this is being done, so that the boom may swing in the direc- 
tion of the wind and the sail offer no resistance to it. The 
throat halliard should be drawn so tight that the boom will 
just clear the saddle, which surrounds the mast and which 
will support the boom after sailing for a short time, as the 
sail and halliards will stretch. Then the peak may be 
drawn up to its proper position. 

Now you are ready to weigh anchor. This can be 
done by one person if the anchorage ground is soft mud, 
but if it is stiff clay or gravel and the flukes of the anchor 
are broad, it may take the strength of two to break anchor- 
age without a windlass. If a few feet of chain are paid out 
quickly the chain will be loose enough to throw over a 
small iron pulley that is attached to the side of the bow- 
sprit on many small yachts two or three feet from the bows 
and which gives a purchase in hauling on the chain. Then 
by the application of the strength of the crew the flukes 
can be drawn out. As soon as the anchor comes away one 
of the yachtsmen may draw it up as rapidly as convenient 
while the other quickly regains the helm. 

Once the anchor is clear of the river bottom the yacht 
will drift, and the sooner headway is obtained the better, as 



20 



GETTING UNDER WAY. 





ui 

2. 



o 

I 



CASTING THE YACHT'S HEAD. 

the rudder has no command over the boat until she moves 
forward. 

As the yacht has been anchored at the head her stern 
will swing off from the wind, inclining in the direction of 
the expiring tide, which position is represented in the left- 
hand diagram at figure 1. 

To make her head fall off the wind, draw the weather 
jib sheet taut and put the helm hard up, that is move the 
tiller in the direction from which the wind is blowing. The 
breeze filling the jib, will push the yacht's head around and 
give her a slight forward motion. Next trim in the main 
sheet, drawing the boom almost in a line with the keel. Now 
the full pressure of the wind will be on the sails, and as the 
vessel gains headway her rudder will act, throwing her head 



GETTING UNDER WAY. 21 

still further from the wind. As the wind draws across the 
beam, (position No. 2) loosen the main sheet and let the 
boom swing out to prevent it from gybing as the yacht 
moves to position No. 3. (Gybing occurs when the wind, 
coming over the stern, shifts, and catches the sails on the side 
opposite to that which it was originally, swinging the boom 
over rapidly, and is attended by more or less danger. To 
prevent gybing a light line or boom guy is attached to the 
boom near the sheet block and lead forward to the leeward 
mainstay). Then bring the helm amidships or in a line 
with the keel, rapidly draw in the main sheet again until 
the boom approaches a line parallel with the direction of the 
wind, pat che helm in the same position as at first and look 
out for your head — keep clear of the sheet. The wind 
will catch the sail on the opposite side and cause the boom 
to swing over with a rapidity in proportion to the strength 
of the breeze. This mode of turning the yacht so as to 
bring the wind on the opposite side over the stern is termed 
wearing and should be done only with reduced sail, unless 
the breeze is very moderate. In heavy weather it is 
attended with considerable danger. 

Kemember to have the main sheet clear before this move 
is made as the boom swings with great force and should be 
brought up gradually, to prevent the carrying away of 
blocks. It is very probable you will have the skin scraped 
from your hands on the first attempt to wear. 

If you should be so unfortunate as to have the blocks 



22 GETTING UNDER WAY. 

torn from the boom during this movement, still hold 
the helm in the same position and cast loose the jib sheets 
before headway is lost, when the yacht will keep right on 
in a circle, until she heads the wind. After arriving at 
this position the helm should be brought in a line with 
the keel again. Now the disabled boom will be overdeck, 
when sail can be lowered and repairs made, anchoring first 
if still near the shore or if in danger of drifting into other 
vessels. 

After everything is put in order another attempt 
should be made, and the same proceedings gone through 
with as before. After arriving at position No. 6, the yacht 
heading on her intended course, the helm should be brought 
amidships. As you intend sailing with the wind on the 
beam, the centre-board should be lowered to diminish lee- 
way, or drifting sideways before the wind. If the centre- 
board does not run out freely, luff the yacht, in other words 
run her head on the wind, when the pressure will be taken 
from the board and it will slip out readily. Trim down 
first the main sheet, and as you do so the helm may be put 
up slightly as the pressure of the wind will be all on the 
mainsail, which, as it is abaft the mast, will give the boat 
a tendency to run up into the wind, which effort the helm 
put up a trifle will counteract. Now draw taut the lee 
jib sheet, and make the jib lie almost flat. As the jib is 
trimmed down the helm can be brought to the amidships 
position, or very near to it. In a yacht the sails of which 



GETTING UNDER WAY. 23 

are well balanced the rudder will be almost in a line with 
the keel. 

Should the wind at the time of starting blow on 
shore, instead of off, getting under way will be more diffi- 
cult. Still if the yachtsman has acquired a little experi- 
ence in starting under more favorable circumstances he may 
make the attempt with an on-shore wind with good chances 
of success. 

The yacht should be anchored far enough from the 
shore to insure a floating depth of water at least three of her 
lengths from her stern, which in this case will be nearest 
the shore, inclining, as before, in the direction of the tide. 
The space between the yacht and shore, or rather limit of 
floating depth, is necessary, as before headway can be made 
the wind will cause the yacht to drift sideways. Although 
an expert yachtsman can get under way with very little lee- 
room, probably with less than a single vessel's length of 
space, it will be necessary for a beginner to give himself 
more room or stand a very great chance of being driven 
hard ashore, which at high water would compel him to give 
up the sail for that day, or that tide, at least. 

The best stage of the tide when getting under way 
with the wind off-shore is at slack water or the turn of the 
tide, but with the wind on-shore the best time is while the 
tide is flowing, provided there are no other vessels near to 
drift into. The tide flowing will cause the yacht to lie more 
or less parallel with the shore and broadside to the inblow- 



24 GETTING UNDER WAY. 

ing breeze. In this position her jib will fill more readily, 
and, as her head falls away before the breeze, the mainsheet 
can be trimmed in and headway can be made before the 
drift sideways on shore has become very great. The slight- 
est headway gives control through the rudder and if the 
helm is gently put down the yacht will gradually incline 
off shore. 

When the yacht arrives at figure 4, in the right hand 
diagram, she is close hauled on the port tack. By loosening 
the jib sheet, keeping the helm to starboard and trimming 
in the mainsheet she will gradually come head to the wind, 
and a little later will have the wind on the starboard, as in 
figure 5, when the lee jib sheet should be hauled taut, and 
the main sheet be brought home so that the sail will draw. 

Tacking, this mode of bringing the wind on the other 
side of the sail, is preferable to wearing and is always the 
safest. When the wind is on the starboard side the vessel 
is on the starboard tack, when the wind is on the port side 
the vessel is on the port tack. By sailing first on one tack 
then on the other, vessels proceed in the direction from which 
the wind is blowing. A fore-and-aft vessel will sail closer 
to the wind than will a square rigged one, and the flatter the 
sails lie the closer to the wind can the vessel be brought. 
The jib or staysail is sometimes laced to a boom to diminish 
its curving so that it will draw more than it would other- 
wise. 



REDUCING SAIL 



Always keep a sharp lookout to windward for squalls, 
which are frequently quite severe. On a clear summer day 
they generally accompany a black mass of clouds, sometimes 
with thunder and lightning, which notify their approach, 
followed by a heavy rainfall. On cloudy days as a rule 
they come up without any meteorological phenomena other 
than those prevailing at the time. 

Watch the small vessels to windward of you. If they 
reduce sail it is time for you also to take in sail. Don't 
delay, for a squall travels swiftly and will be on you before 
you are ready for it if sail is not taken in rapidly. If the 
water a hundred yards or so to windward shows ripples be 
ready to meet the gust with the helm. Keep jib sheets clear. 
The writer has been caught in a heavy blow when the jib 
sheets had got jammed in the cleat to which they were be- 
layed. The wind pressed the yacht so far over that although 
the helm was put hard down she would not come up into 
the wind, from the fact that owing to the excessive heeling 
over only a small portion of the rudder was immersed. If 
the wind could have been spilled from the jib all would have 
been well. The rain fell in torrents, the wind roared and 

25 



26 REDUCING SAIL. 

the water washed into the cockpit. The boom and lower 
part of the mainsail dragging in the water further counter- 
acted the diminished force of the rudder and also assisted in 
throwing her over. The yacht would have capsized in a 
very short time and foundered, as she was ballasted suffici- 
ently to cause that catastrophe. Leaving the helm to take 
care of itself and rushing forward the jib halliards were 
loosened and by violently pulling on the jib downhaul the 
jib was taken in, and by again forcing down the helm she 
slowly came around, head to the wind, and sail was reduced. 

No damage was done at the time, further than loosing 
overboard all the loose articles that were on deck. The 
rainfall was so dense that it was some time before all the 
articles that did not sink could be found and picked up. 

This was a very narrow escape and impressed on us 
the wisdom of keeping all running rigging in order. The 
squall, as they usually are, was as short lived as it was 
severe and in half an hour after our heeling over the sun 
was shining brightly and drying our clothing, a gentle 
breeze blowing, the thunder dying away and the black 
cloud disappearing in the Northeast. 

Eeducing sail should be practiced as soon as possible 
and thereby the young yachtsman will be prepared and know 
how to act in case of a blow. 

If you wish to take in sail while tacking or sailing with 
the wind on the beam put down the helm and trim in 
the mainsheet, which action will throw the yacht's head to 



REDUCING SAIL. 



27 



the wind, and relieve the sails of pressure. Lower the peak, 
then the throat, by loosening the corresponding halliards and 
pulling on the downhaul, or rope attached to the jaws of the 
gaff and running alongside the mast to the deck. Lower 
the sail sufficiently to 
allow whichever rowof 
reef points you wish to 
fasten to be passed 
around and tied be- 
neath the boom. 

The reef points are 
short pieces of cord- 
age arranged in two or 
more rows across the 
sail; the lowest row, 
or first reef, being near 
the foot. Each point 
passes through the sail 
and is knotted and 
secured in position, an end hanging down on each 
side of the sail far enough to admit of being tied be- 
neath the boom when the sail is lowered sufficiently. 
They should always be tied with reef knots. On 
the back edge of the sail, or what is technically known 
as the leech, at the end of each row of reef points is worked 
in the bolt rope of the canvas a loop of rope, or reef cringle, 
containing a small iron ring. One end of a short piece of 




BOOM AND MAINSAIL. 



28 REDUCING SAIL. 

rope, called a reef pennant, is attached to one side of the 
boom beneath the reef cringles, the other end is passed up 
and through the reef cringle of whichever reef is intended 
to be put in the sail, down on the other side and through 
a block screwed to the side of the boom, and, is led from 
thence forward to a cleat on the underside of the boom, to 
which it is belayed. 

As the halliards are loosened the leech of the sail 
is drawn down by means'of the reef pennant and is kept in 
position by belaying the pennant to the cleat, which is placed 
far enough inboard to be reached conveniently from the 
deck. Rings corresponding to the reef cringles are also 
fastened to the sail at the end of each row of reef points near- 
est the mast. This portion of the sail is called the luff' and 
the rings are termed luff cringles. 

The halliards should be made fast temporarily and one 
of you should commence tying the reef points nearest the 
mast, first passing a short piece of rope through the luff 
cringle and tying beneath the boom, working aft, while the 
steersman can tie those nearest to him and at the same time 
tend the tiller. 

If the yacht looses headway and falls off before the 
wind, after several points are tied the halliards can be draVn 
up temporarily, the sheet trimmed in, and, after headway is 
gained, the yacht can again be thrown up in the wind, when 
the halliards can be loosened and the tying of the remaining 
points finished. 



REDUCING SAIL. 29 

If care is taken to cast loose the jib sheets before this 
manoeuvre is executed the chances are very small of the 
yacht's falling away before the wind until the reefing 
is finished, while, on the contrary, if the jib is full of wind 
when the mainsail halliards are lowered it may be almost 
impossible to keep the yacht in the wind's eye with the 
rudder, particularly if she carries a very large jib. 

After the tying is finished the halliards should be 
drawn tight and made fast, when the yacht can be allowed 
to fall away upon her course again. 

A reefed mainsail will not lie as smooth and flat as one 
that is hoisted to its full height, therefore the yacht can not 
run as close to the wind as before. Have 
the luff well tied down, as that portion of 
the sail if loose or baggy will shake before 
it would if properly tied. The shaking 
signifies that the wind is not pressing REEF knot. 
against the sail to the greatest advantage and warns 
the steersman to put up his helm slightly so the yacht 
will drop off a trifle. 

In tying the points care should be taken to make reef 
knots, like this shown in the accompanying cut, as they can 
be untied with comparative ease, and will not work loose as 
will be the case with a knot made by passing the ends of 
the cord in the opposite direction in making the second or 
upper portion of the knot. Sailors call the latter a granny's 
knot, 




80 REDUCING SAIL. 

Sail stops should be tied with reef knots, and this knot 
should be made in almost all temporary ties where two ends 
of a cord or rope are fastened together. If made properly 
it will not slip, no matter how much strain is put on 
the rope. 

When sailing with a freshening wind abaft the beam and 
wishing to reduce sail the precaution should be taken to drop 
the peak of the mainsail before bringing the yacht around 
into the wind. It is alsp wise to hoist the end of the boom 
with the topping lift, by means of the topping lift tackle. 
While sailing large the breeze may increase very much 
without being noticed, so that due caution should be 
observed before bringing the wind on the beam in the 
attempt to head the yacht to the wind. 

After dropping the peak and loosening the jib sheets, 
put down the helm, and, if the breeze is very strong, let the 
main sheet run out as far as it will, so as to spill as much 
of the wind as possible. If she obeys her helm readily she 
will swing around and quickly pass the danger point of the 
movement, which is when the wind is on the beam. As 
her head comes up in the wind trim in the mainsheet 
rapidly and give her good headway before running up into 
the wind, after which the reefing can be done, as described 
above. Unless you are in very rough water you will get 
around safely. 

If the wind increases and you put a second reef in the 
mainsail you will have difficulty in keeping the yacht's head 



REDUCING SAIL. 31 

to the wind, as the entire jib will be too much head sail for 
the reduced mainsail. The jibs on large vessels have an 
extra piece hooked or laced to the bottom part, called the 
bonnet. By taking out the bonnet the sail is reduced. The 
easiest plan to reduce a small yacht's jib is to lower it two or 
three feet and tie up the foot by means of a row of reef 
points. 

While sailing in the bay, if you should be caught in a 
hard gale, when the tops of the waves are chopped off and 
sent through the air in spinning drops, and you think that 
it will not be safe to attempt to ride out the storm, you had 
better scud before the wind, unless by doing so you would 
be approaching a lee shore. 

Scudding under the close reefed mainsail is not safe for 
several reasons: First, the weight of the boom will cause 
the yacht to roll and strain the mast, and through it the 
deck; second, if the wind is gusty and shifts through several 
points, there is great danger of gybing, which, at such a 
time, would be almost certain to break the boom or carry some- 
thing away, thereby incurring great danger of foundering. 

A storm trysail should be set for scudding. Luff the 
yacht and take in altogether the mainsail. Keep the yacht's 
head to wind under the jib alone by putting the helm 
down and tending jib sheet after the mainsail is lowered; do 
not let her fall broadside to the waves, but spill the wind 
from the jib by loosening the lee jib sheet, the other to be 
entirely loose; she may be able to run before the wind 



32 REDUCING SAIL. 

under jib alon$, but it is safest to get storm trysail hoisted 
before coming around. Truss the boom and lash down; un- 
hook mainsheet from boom; unhook peak halliards from 
gaff; bring out trysail and lace the forward edge, or luff, to 
the mast, attaching the peak halliards to the head, and the 
mainsheet to the clew, or outer lower corner; hoist away 
and trim in sheet. Watch for a lull and wear and you will 
be scudding under a storm trysail and jib. The jib may 
now be taken in to reduce strain on the mast. 

The danger in scudding lies in the chance of waves 
overtaking the yacht and pouring in over the stern. If you 
are in water that is not too deep and you have a good anchor 
and chain it is preferable to ride at anchor with a long chain. 

Carrying away the sails or breaking the mast, when 
anchoring is not available, is a misfortune which can be 
met by rigging a sea anchor, in this manner: Lash three 
spars, oars, boathooks, or anything that is handy into a 
triangle; fasten securely across this frame a spare sail and 
in the middle of one of the spars fasten a heavy weight, a 
spare anchor or piece of ballast; to each of the sides of the 
triangle securely fasten a short piece of rope, as long as one 
side of the triangle, and tie their free ends together; fasten 
your cable or chain to this and throw overboard and fasten 
at the bow. This will hold her head to the wind and slightly 
break the force of the waves. 



SAILING AT NIGHT. 



A sailing vessel while in motion has a green lantern 
fixed on her starboard bow and so protected by boxing that 
the rays from it are cast directly ahead and from thence 
through a section of a circle slightly abaft the starboard 
beam. On the port side a red lantern is fixed in a corres- 
ponding manner so that its light is seen only on the port 
side of the vessel within the prescribed limit. 

On small vessels, especially in rough weather, such 
lights with their screens are difficult to attach, and as substi- 
tutes for them a green and a red lantern can be placed in a 
bucket or an empty box on deck so as to be unseen 
until the approach of a vessel, when the proper lantern can 
be lifted from the box and shown on the side toward the ap- 
proaching danger, the light to be carefully screened from 
the other side and the stern of the yacht by the body of the 
person showing it. This arrangement will answer very well 
where only occasional voyages are made by night, but care 
must be taken not to show the wrong light. The green to be 
shown on the starboard or right hand side ) the red on the port or 
left hand side. 

2 33 



34 SAILING AT NIGHT. 

The colored lights are not to be used while at anchor; 
but a white light is to be hung to the fore stay six or eight 
feet above the deck, unprotected, so as to show all around 
the horizon. This light must be removed when getting 
under way again, for to sail with it would very likely be 
the cause of a collision, as showing the white light in con- 
nection with the colored ones implies the vessel to be a 
steamer, and therefore restricts the vessel's right of way. 
The white light can be temporarily shown from the stern on 
the approach of a vessel from that direction. 

The danger of being run down or of running down 
something else is very much increased in the neighborhood 
of cities, where many vessels are passing and repassing con- 
tinually. This risk is even greater at night than during the 
day as the young sailor is apt to become confused by the 
multiplicity of lights; for this reason a sharp lookout should 
be kept, especially for ferry boats, which can be recognized 
by their two white lights — one on each end, together with 
the colored side lights. Other steam vessels ordinarily carry 
a single white light besides the colored lights. 

Two white lights, one above the other, together with the 
side lights denote a tug or steamer towing another vessel. 
To attempt to cross the stern of a vessel with lights arranged 
in this manner would bring the yachtsman to grief 
through the intervention of the towing hawser and the ves- 
sel being towed, which also carries side lights, minus the 
white if she is a sailing vessel. 



SAILINGS AT NIGHT. 35 

If either a sailing or steam vessel is not under control 
or is engaged in dredging or laying telegraph cables she ex- 
hibits three red lights hanging in a row one over the other. 

These are the only arrangements of lights likely to be 
met with on the Delaware. There are several other combi- 
nations used by pilots and by fishermen, where numbers 
congregate, which signify that the vessels are engaged in 
trawling, fishing with drift net, etc., but which if mentioned 
here would be apt only to confuse the reader. 

Now a few rules concerning the direction of steering 
when meeting or crossing lights: 

If both the red and green lights of a vessel are seen at 
once directly ahead (figure 2) put your helm to port, unless 
you are on the starboard tack (figure 1), in which case you 
have the right of way. If you are close hauled on the star- 
board tack and the vessel continues to bear down on you, 
do not attempt to put up your helm and fall off' to port; 
keep cool; probably her steersman may not have seen you 
in the darkness; shout to him to port his helm. Then, 
at the last moment, you must decide whether to put yours 
to port or not, as by doing so your yacht will be placed 
broadside to the approaching vessel and headway will be lost. 

If you wish to pass to the left, contrary to the rule, 
you must turn the yacht's head to port while a consider- 
able distance away, showing your green light, thereby sig- 
nifying your intention to the steersman of the other vessel 
that you intend to pass him on that side. If this move is 



36 



SAILINa AT NIGHT. 




DIAGRAM ILLUSTRATING STEERING RULES. 

understood the red light of the other vessel will disappear 
and only the green will be visible, when the vessels will be 
in safe relative positions. 

In the first of the above cases to pass each other your 
red light must oppose his; in the second case your green 
light must oppose his. 

There is doubt and danger only when a green is op- 
posed to a red, or a red to a green. A green light ahead on 
your red light or port side signifies that a vessel is sailing 
on a line that will cross your bow (3 and 4), or, if she is a 
considerable distance to the port, you stand a greater chance 
of crossing her bow. In this case watch her carefully. 
If you are on the starboard tack (figure 1) you have the 
right of way and can hold your course. If she is coming 



SAILING AT NIGHT. 37 

on a diagonal line to meet you, you know she is on the port 
tack and must give away to you. 

If she is going in the same general direction as you 
are and on the starboard tack (figure 4) you will either 
have to luff or fall away if there is danger of collision 
because your vessel is to the windward. 

The above rules embrace those for steering by daylight. 
In a few words they are as follows: 

A vessel sailing free meeting a vessel tacking must 
give way so as allow the vessel sailing close to pass with- 
out falling off from the wind or luffing. All the vessels 
on the right of the dotted line are sailing free and should 
give way to 1, 8 and 4. The parallel lines in the diagram 
represent the direction of the wind. The boom always 
swings over the leeward side of the yacht. 

When two vessels meet while tacking (as in 4 and 3) 
the one having the wind on the starboard bow, or, in other 
words, the one on the starboard tack, has the right of way. 

If both of the meeting vessels are sailing free with the 
wind on the same side(as in 2 and 7, or 5and6) the windward 
vessel must give way to the other; if both are running free 
with the wind on different sides (figures 5 and 2) the one 
with the wind on the starboard side of the sail has the 
right of way. 

A vessel with the wind aft and with her boom car- 
ried to starboard must keep out of the way of all others 
(figure 7). 



38 SAILING AT NIGHT. 

These rules will govern the yachtsman's actions when 
meeting sailing vessels; with steamers they can be followed 
in a modified way; as steamers are under much better con- 
trol than vessels that move through the medium of wind 
pressure, they are supposed to give up the right of way. 
By using discretion and partly following the same rules 
when meeting steamers very little risk of collision will be 

run. 

When steamers pass each other to the left they signify 
their intention of doing so by two short whistles, when pass- 
ing to the right they blow only one whistle. 



ANCHORING. 



As the anchor is drawn up at the time of getting under 
way the mud should be washed from it and the chain, and 
it should be hung by one fluke over the gunwale, or fished, 
where it will not be in the way of the jib sheets when going 
about. 

The chain should, remain on deck after weighing 
anchor long enough to become dry, and then be run, down 
through the chain hole in the deck. Have its inner end 
securely fastened to a ringbolt, around a beam, or to the foot 
of the mast, to prevent it from being lost overboard when 
anchoring in deep water. Do not depend on this fastening 
to ride at anchor with, but give two or three turns around 
the knighthead or a stanchion on deck. 

When about to anchor, throw the yacht's head up in the 
wind, take in the jib, and, after headway is checked, let go the 
anchor, at the same time haul down the mainsail. Be care* 
ful to let the anchor go down crown first and see that the 
chain does not wrap around either the shank or the flukes, 
as a fouled anchor will not hold to the bottom. Let out 
plenty of chain if there i& a hard bottom and the current or 

39 



40 ANCHORING. 



tide is strong, as the yacht may drag her anchor. This can be 
discovered by placing your hand on the chain, when if 
dragging a jarring or quivering motion will be felt. In that 
case let out more chain, the full length if necessary. If she 
still drags, draw up the anchor to see that it is not fouled. 

If running before the wind to the anchorage, and you 
are unable to come about, take in mainsail when a consider- 
able distance from the place selected and run up to it under 
the jib alone. As the yacht's speed decreases you can judge 
at what distance to take in the jib. If running against a 
strong tide with a light wind the sails can be carried longer 
than when the tide is running with you. 

Make allowance both for the length of chain to be run 
out and the drift or dragging of the anchor before it takes 
hold, also take into consideration the direction of tide and 
wind, particularly the former. If anchoring near other ves- 
sels make allowance for the tide's swinging the vessel 
around, so that you will neither foul chains nor collide. 

Frequently- while sailing on the river with a light 
breeze you will find it to advantage to anchor when the tide 
turns in the direction opposite to your course. A square- 
sail can easily be converted into an awning at such times 
by unhooking the peak halliards, after the mainsail is furled 
and trussed, and stretching the square-sail along the top of 
the gaff and boom, the spars used as yards being at right 
angles with the boom, one near th£ throat the other over 
the stern sheets, and fastened. The throat halliards should 



ANCHORING. 41 



be drawn so as to raise the boom about two feet from its 
usual position on the saddle, then the sides of the awning 
may be tied by pieces of marlin to small rings or staples 
fastened in the deck near the gunwale. These will prevent 
the light breeze from tipping up the awning on either side. 
See that you get the awning cleared away in time for a blow, 
if one should come up, or you will be very likely to lose it. 

An awning of some sort, if nothing better than light 
mTislin, should be carried, as there will be many hours of 
anchoring during midday in a hot sun and waiting for the 
tide to turn or a breeze to spring up, and shelter on deck at 
such a time will be found very acceptable, as the cabin will 
be then extremely close. 

During these anchorages the yachtsmen wile away their 
time by playing games, telling stories, reading, and, to those 
who are so inclined, a quiet smoke and meditation followed by 
a refreshing nap is then indulged in. Several men crowded 
into a small cabin could not have near the comfort and actual 
pleasure that they would have on deck, getting the bene- 
fit of the little catspaws that occasionally ripple the surface 
of the water. 

At the turn of tide or the appearance of an increasing 
breeze, throw the books and papers into the cabin, put away 
the games, wake the slumberers, clear away the awning, hoist 
sail and up with the anchor, when away you go, dashing 
through the water and heading for your next anchorage. 

When anchoring for the night run up a creek or into a 



42 ANCHORINa. 



cove off from the channel as then you will not be run down, 
even if your white light blows out as it is very apt to on 
gusty nights. 

At the mouth of almost every creek there is a sandbar, 
frequently so high that it is exposed at low tide, while just 
within there is deep water, in some instances twenty feet or 
more. This should be remembered when approaching a 
strange creek and due precaution should be taken. It is 
best to reduce sail and draw up the centreboard, half way, 
at least, when the wind is on the beam. 

A long oar or boathook is useful for sounding when in 
ten feet of water or less; for a greater depth than that a 
short lead-line can be used. 

A creek frequently has a channel of considerable depth 
through its bar, but seldom is it in a direct line with its 
mouth; it is more apt to be some distance below, sometimes 
half a mile. A good chart will enable you to get in with 
less trouble than any attempt to search for the channel 
without one will, but with a little care a yacht drawing three 
or four feet of water can be gotten safely within a creek by 
using the small boat to search for the position of the channel. 

Do not anchor in very shallow water, especially if the 
tide is high. The height of the tide, the draft of the yacht 
and at least three feet additional should be allowed in quiet 
water. Say, for instance, it is high water when you wish to 
anchor. The regular tides on the Delaware are between five 
and six feet in height, add to six feet your draft, say three 



ANCHORING. 43 



feet, and also three feet more; these sums amount to twelve 
feet. If there is a swell at least two feet more should be 
added. By anchoring in less water than this the yacht may 
settle on the anchor and break her planking. If you can 
awaken at the turn of the tide you had better attend to 
the chain, as the yacht's swinging around is apt to foul the 
anchor, although this risk can be diminished by mooring or 
by anchoring short, say with a length of chain double the 
depth of water, or less. This length will not allow the 
anchor to hold in a blow. 

Mooring in the simplest manner is done by letting out 
considerable chain — twice as much as you intend to ride at 
— and then dropping another anchor. The chain attached 
to the first anchor can be drawn in as the other is paid out, 
until one-half is drawn in and the vessel is an equal distance 
from each. This will prevent swinging with the tide, and 
the holding is also more secure during a blow. The centre 
board should be drawn up and fastened before anchoring. 

For a light draft cabin yacht twenty-five feet long an 
anchor weighing sixty or seventy-five pounds will be suf- 
ficiently heavy. Chain is far superior to rope for anchoring. 
It takes up less room, is stronger, can be kept cleaner, and 
its extra weight will cause the anchor to hold better. A 
suitable size is 5-16 inch, measuring the diameter of the iron. 
It will take a strain of three tons to break a chain of this size, 
while it weighs less than a pound to the foot. Eope strong 
enough to stand this strain would have to be 3J inches in 



44 ANCHORING. 



circumference. Rope is always measured around; a three 
inch rope being nearly one inch in diameter, as the circum- 
ference is a fraction over three times the diameter. A rope 
of this size has a working strength of about one and one- 
half tons. 

If it is necessary to fasten a rope to a spare anchor a 
rolling hitch should be made, which is a combination of a 
round turn and a clove hitch. The round turn is made by 
passing the end twice through the ring instead of once as is 
represented in the cut on page 15 after which the clove 
hitch is made and the end of the rope is seized to the 
standing part. The seizing is done by wrapping small 
stuff, such as rope yarn, eight or ten times around both the 
end and the part it lies on and tying tight, thus making 
it secure. 

A convenient length of chain for anchoring a small 
yacht is one hundred feet, although sixty feet will do as with 
that length you can anchor quite securely in twenty feet of 
water. 

The channel in the Delaware varies from twenty-five to 
fifty feet in depth, and some places in the bay it is sixty feet 
deep. Probably the deepest place this side of Fort Delaware 
is near the foot of Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, where there 
are fifty-eight feet of water. 

If your anchor should become fast on the bottom, by 
catching in sunken wreckage, or masses of rock, it can be 
liberated by rowing in the small boat over the spot where it 



ANCHORING. 45 



lies and at the same time dragging the bight or loop of a 
rope weighted so that it will catch across the upper fluke, 
then by rowing and pulling on the rope the anchor may be 
loosened sufficiently to be drawn up from the deck of the 
yacht. If it is securely fastened and the rope slips off, catch 
it again and pass a small iron ring over both ends of the 
rope, then by shaking it will run down to the anchor and 
lock the loop or bight securely around the fluke, when by 
passing the ends aboard the yacht and giving them a turn 
around the windlass, or even by heaving with main strength, 
the anchor may be drawn to the deck, crown uppermost. 

If you intend anchoring where it is probable the anchor 
will be caught make the end of the rope or chain fas.t to the 
crown and then seize it at two or three feet from the end to 
the ring by one or two pieces of twine or rope yarn. When 
stuck, by winding it on the windlass the rope yarn will 
break and allow the anchor to be drawn out by the crown. 

When the inner end of the anchor chain or rope slips 
overboard it can be got by rowing with a grapnell across its 
length. With rope to be dragged for, three large fish hooks 
can be bound back to back and used as a grapnell. They 
will readily catch in the strands. 



THE YACHT'S TENDER. 



A strong and light tender for the yacht is a very neces- 
sary adjunct. It should be short, broad and shallow. The 
first quality will enable it to be stowed and lashed, bottom 
up, on the trunk when necessary in rough weather, breadth 
will give it buoyancy, stability, and also room for the occu- 
pants, while shallowness will allow it to be rowed close to a 
flat shore or over a bar, and will enable it to be towed easily 
after the yacht; the last quality will also permit it to be 
stowed on the trunk handier, as the boom can be made to 
clear it by lifting its end with the topping lift in a less 
degree than would be necessary with a deeper boat. 

Another point in favor of a shallow boat is that short 
oars can be used, and, therefore, there will be less exertion 
in rowing. The oars should not be broad, but with a 
moderately long blade. They will remain in good order 
much longer if bound near the end of the blade with tin or 
sheet iron, or, what is better, copper. 

Clinker-built double-end gunning skiffs (with the lower 
edge of each strake or plank overlapping the one next 
beneath, in the same manner as do the weatherboards of a 

46 



THE YACHTS TENDER. 47 

frame house) combine the qualities of strength and lightness 
in a great degree. The only objection to these boats is 
when injured they are difficult to repair. 

Although the ordinary carvel-built boats (those with 
the edges of the stakes joining) are somewhat heavier, they 
will stand rougher usage, and if the planking should be 
broken they can be temporarily repaired by tacking a piece 
of sheet lead, or even canvas over the damaged parts. The 
rough, clinker-built boats cannot be repaired in this manner 
very successfully. 

There is also built a hoop-fastened boat, which has 
very little framework. The boards are joined edge to edge 
as in the ordinary carvel and are held together by iron 
hoops passing around outside the planking, each hoop end- 
ing in a round rod which has a thread cut in it on which a 
nut is screwed after the rod passes through the gunwale and 
a small iron plate. This is also lighter than the ordinary 
boat. 

The painter should be securely fastened in the bow and 
be at least fifteen feet long. When making fast to a wharf 
either at high or at low tide with the intention of leaving the 
boat for several hours be sure to give plenty of rope, or the 
bow will be suspended if the tide falls and the stern will 
sink, filling her, while if the tide rises the bow will be 
held down and she will be filled in that manner. 

When making fast to a wharf where there is a strong 
tideway she will be prevented from swinging around with 



1EE YACET& 3IXLER. 



the turn of the tide, and becoming damaged, by anchoring 
her at the stern with a kedge or small anchor. The latter, 
although convenient, is not a necessary article in a boat's 
outfit, but a leather bailer or scoop with wooden handle 
should always be in the boat. A boathook is also useful. 
Eowlocks should be fastened with twine or marlin. 

When rowing through a swell caused by a steamboat 
keep the boat's head to the waves. Attempting to make fast 
to a vessel in motion is dangerous. When doing so the 
head of the rowboat should be in the same direction as the 
moving vessel, and as soon as the end of the painter is passed 
on board no time should be lost in going to the stern of the 
boat and sitting down, as a light boat towed rapidly through 
the water with a weight near the bow is almost sure to 
plunge under bow first and turn over. 

A leaky boat can be emptied of water when the yacht is 
sailing rapidly by tjungher short, so as to slightly lift her head 
out of water. If she leakes near the stern nearly all of the 
water will pass out, and this will save a great deal of work 
bailing. As a rule boats in tow should be tied short. An 
exception is when running before the wind in a stiff breeze. 

In getting into a small boat from the water climb over the 
the stern, as an attempt to get in over the side will capsize her. 

A ringbolt should be securely fastened in the stern as 
well as in the bow. The stern ringbolt is useful in getting 
her on deck, in mooring her to prevent her from swinging 
with the tide, and of most importance in towing the yacht 



THE YACHTS TENDER. 49 

when necessary. By placing heavy weights in the stern of 
the rowboat, the labor of towing will be much diminished. 

When landing on a shore or beach it is well to pull up 
the boat and make the painter fast to the kedge if you have 
one, and bury one fluke in the sand, to prevent the rising 
tide from floating her off. If the boat is heavy, the tide is 
falling and you wish to keep her afloat, push her back into 
water two or three feet deep and anchor her with the kedge, 
then wade ashore. 

A light, shallow boat such as has been suggested for a 
yacht's tender is intended only for rowing. On account of 
light draft and no centre board even if supplied with a small 
sail she could only run before the wind. Still it is possible 
to work to windward with such a boat by using lee-boards. 
The fishermen on the seacoast use these boards in sailing 
over the sounds with their small boats; many boats fitted 
with them can be seen at the Inlet, Atlantic City. 

The mast should be steeped well up in the bow and 
should support a small sprit sail. Two lee-boards are used, 
although one would answer by shifting it over every time a 
tack was made. The board hangs over the leeward side 
and is about three feet long and ten inches wide at one end 
and fourteen at the other. The wide end hangs in the water 
and acts as a centre board, while it is supported at the narrow 
end by a rope. A small boat should be steered by an oar over 
the stern, as in riding the swells the stern and rudder are 
often out of water, when she is apt to fall away and capsize. 



WINTERING. 



As the days grow short and chilly a winter's berth for 
the yacht will have to.be looked for. If it is the intention 
of the owner to keep her afloat all winter she should be 
drawn up into some quiet basin out of the influence of the 
tides and where she will be protected from the floating ice 
and heavy gales. Or she can be floated near to the shore 
on a spring tide, where she would be out of the water most 
of the time. Select an easy shore with a southerly expos- 
ure, as the heavy winter winds come from the northeast and 
northwest. A few days before the spring tides, which are 
higher than the usual tides, and which occur at the first and 
last quarter of the moon, preparation should be made for 
getting the yacht as high on the beach as possible. 

On a bright, sunny day hoist the jib and mainsail and 
let them flap about in the breeze, with the peak of the main- 
sail hanging and the sheets loose. Bring out the light sails, 
topsail, squaresail and others, and spread them out in the 
sun so as to get perfectly dry, and in the middle of the after- 
noon, before the damp breezes of evening blow, roll up the 
light sails, unhook the sheets, downhauls and halliards from 

50 



WINTERING. 51 



the larger sails, and unlace them from the spars and stays. 
Roll up all the sails securely and put them in a dry, well 
ventilated loft. Occasionally on sunny days during the 
winter they should be looked over and opened out to dry if 
there are any signs of mildew, which if allowed to spread 
would soon ruin an expensive sail. Never leave them in 
the cabin of the yacht. 

Next take up the flooring of the cabin and remove the 
ballast, which is generally pigs of iron, sometimes made to 
fit the curvature of the position of the hull in which they lie. 
This, it is hardly necessary to say, should be removed in a 
barrow or wagon to a place of safety. The centreboard 
should be drawn up and segurely fastened. 

As she now floats very light she should at the highest 
tide be brought as close to the shore as possible, the anchor 
carried out on shore for some distance, a hole dug and one 
of its flukes buried, securely anchoring the yacht to the 
shore to prevent her from going adrift should she be floated 
by a higher tide than usual. She will be comparatively 
secure in thi$ position, unless the ice is blown ashore during 
high water. 

A rope or chain should be attached to her stern and 
fastened to a tree or post on shore. Her rudder had better 
be unhung and placed in the cabin. Put two or three large 
blocks of wood under her sides to keep her on an even keel, 
or run ropes from the masthead to supports on shore. The 
stays should be loosened, and they can be used for steady- 



52 WINTERING. 



ing her by adding rope enough to make them sufficiently 
long. Knocking out two or three of the blocks or wedges 
between the mast and the deck will give the forehold venti- 
lation. The ports in the side of the trunk should be left 
open slightly, which will ventilate the cabin. 

Everything that can be injured by dampness should be 
removed from the cabin, as during the winter the moisture 
will condense and make her very damp inside, and for this 
reason she should be occasionally thrown open on clear days. 

If you wish to secure her altogether from the danger of 
floating ice, get a rigger to put his crab or windlass near 
her and by putting greased planks on the sand and blocks 
under the yacht she may be drawn up clear of the water. 

In the spring the mast should be scraped by using a 
boatswain's chair, which somewhat resembles a swing-board, 
to which the halliards is hooked. This had better be done 
by an experienced man. All moderate seams should be left 
as they are, but slightly caulk up very wide ones. Then rub 
down her hull with sand paper and pumice and give her two 
coats of paint. 

After the paint is dry launch her at high tide, but do 
not anchor her very far from the shore as it is probable she 
will leak like a seive and go to the bottom. Keep her in 
three or four feet of water so that she can be pumped out at 
low tide. Let her soak for about a week, by that time her 
seams will have closed, and the water can be baled out, 
when she will be found as tight as a drum. 



WINTERING' 53 



See that the centreboard works all right, as it is liable 
to become wedged in the well by gravel or other foreign 
substances. By uncovering the top of the well and running 
a saw or stiff wire down alongside the centreboard it can be 
cleaned without beaching the yacht. 

The ballast should now be stowed so that the yacht will 
be trimmed properly. If she was in proper condition the 
previous summer no alteration is necessary, and the pigs 
should be replaced in the same places from where they were 
removed. As a general rule the ballast should be arranged 
so that the stern is slightly deeper than the bows, from six 
to eight inches probably, for a yacht twenty -five feet long, 
although no special rule can be given for this and experience 
alone must determine the proper trim for each yacht. 

The mainsheet should be bound to the hoops then 
fastened to the gaff, by attaching the throat and stretch- 
ing the canvas along the gaff, and lashing the peak to 
the end, then run the lacing. The boom is to be laced 
in the same manner, using a small tackle if necessary, the 
topping lift tackle for instance. Attach the jib to the fore- 
stay. Hook on the halliards, topping lift, sheets and other 
running tackle. The stays should be set up after replac- 
ing the wedges around the mast. Again the summer sets 
in and you are now prepared for another season of sailing 
and camping. 



ELEVENTH ANNUAL REGATTA Q. C. Y. C. 



The day of the eleventh annual regatta of the Quaker 
City Yacht Club, Wednesday, June 9th, 1886, was ushered 
in by an increasing cloudy atmosphere and a very moderate 
breeze from the Southeast. By the time the large excursion 
steamer chartered for the occasion, the Thomas Clyde, had 
drawn up to the wharf adjoining the Quaker City Club House 
the breeze had slightly freshened. The river was full of 
pleasure craft, propelled both by wind and steam, and there 
was great bustle along the wharves and on the water. Row 
boats danced over the swell caused by the ferry boats from 
yacht to shore and from shore to yacht, carrying the members 
of the club bent on various errands in regard to the coming 
event. 

The yachts entered for the regatta, each having a large 
black numeral or letter sewn on the peak of the main-sail, 
were moored a short distance above the excursion boat. The 
smallest, the Hurley, of the fifth class, and the only open 
yacht entered this season, was about opposite the Thomas 
Clyde, on which were the judges. The Hurley was anchored 
well over toward the upper end of Ridgway Park, the various 

54 



ELEVENTH ANNUAL REGATTA Q. C. Y. G. 55 

yachts of the next class, the third (27 to 32 feet in length, 
there being no fourth class this season), were anchored on an 
approach to a diagonal line, that extended from the Hurley 
up the river toward the Camden shore, the first class sloops 
being at the upper end of this imaginary line. Still above 
them but nearer the middle of the river were the schooner 
yachts, the only schooners entered for several seasons past. 
They were the Helen and the Avalon. The others were: 
First class (cabin yachts 38 feet and over), the Venitzia, the 
winner in 1885, when she was first entered; the Minerva, 
which came in about twelve minutes behind the Venitzia in 
1885, and the Sunbeam, which was thrown out of the 1885 
regatta by the breaking of her mast in the Horseshoe. 
Second class (32 to 38 feet), Olga, a new sloop, and Consort. 
Third class, (27 to 32 feet), Agile, Carrie Z., Anita, Minerva 
and Nahma, the last three of Trenton. These made a fleet of 
thirteen handsome yachts, all with their mainsails hoisted, 
but the peaks hanging. 

At 11 o'clock sharp the Clyde signalled with her 
steam whistle to get ready. The tugs and steamers 
which had been chartered by various clubs, and which were 
circling around before the line of contestants, drew to on© 
side, the ferry boats delayed their trips for a few minutes, 
and at 11.05 the gun was fired. 

Instantly the mainsail peaks pointed upward, the jibs 
slid up their stays, drawn by muscular arms, and in ten sec- 
onds the yachts were heading down the river, all except the 



56 ELEVENTH ANNUAL REGATTA Q. G. T. G. 

Agile on the port tack, the open yacht Hurley leading. 
Close after her was the Minerva, of Trenton, quite a favorite, 
with her projecting stern giving her the appearance of being 
only half supported by the water. 

After the smaller yachts had passed, the Venitzia, large 
Minerva and Sunbeam came, and last of all the two schoon- 
ers. In three minutes all had run up topsails and jib top- 
sails and were dancing along to the dulcet strains of a brass 
band. 

Just before reaching Gloucester it seemed to be a case 
of nip and tuck between the two schooners, both being on 
the port tack and close together, the Avalon to windward 
and, apparently, a trifle ahead. The Helen came about on 
the starboard tack, and, having the right of way, compelled 
the Avalon to put about to prevent being run into. This 
manoeuvre gave the Helen the wind when she slowly drew 
ahead of her rival. The Helen did not seem to sail as close 
to the wind as did the Avalon. It is a question whether 
she was unable to, or whether her captain found it the best 
policy to present more of a broadside to the wind, so as to 
make the sails draw better and thereby increase her speed. 
The steamers forged ahead, leaving these interesting schoon- 
ers in the Horseshoe, and, passing the smaller craft, caught 
up with the first class sloops near lonely-looking Block Island, 
all the more desolate since the light house has been removed. 
Here the Venitzia was leading the Sunbeam. The distance 
between these two sloops at the head of the line was about 



ELEVENTH ANNUAL REGATTA Q. OL T. 0. 57 

as gi;eat as was the distance between the two schooners at 
the after end of the line. 

Before the steamers reached the turning point, the up- 
per Chester buoy, the Venitzia and Sunbeam had completed 
half a mile of their return voyage, the Venitzia about two 
hundred yards ahead. Just then a shout went up from the 
excursionists as the Venitzia's topsail and jib topsail doubled 
up and hung half way down the mast. The extreme top of 
her topmast had given away to the strain put upon it, as 
there was a rattling breeze at the time. 

Now was the time for the Sunbeam to strain every 
stay, press forward and close up the gap. Out went the 
spinnaker boom, preparatory to running up that immense 
sail, but it was not time to spread it then, as the wind was 
on the starboard quarter, and to make use of that sail it 
would be necessary to have the wind further astern, and to 
put the yacht in such a position would have directed her 
course to the Pennsylvania or leeward side of the river, 
which would necessitate the taking in of the spinnaker, 
bringing the wind on the starboard beam and recrossing the 
river, thereby throwing_ her further behind instead making 
her gain on the disabled yacht. The two passed out of sight 
while the other yachts rounded the turning buoy. 

The third to go around was the Nahma amid great ex- 
citement, and the Hurley was sixth, which was a very good 
position for an open boat, and that the smallest of the 
yachts, to maintain in a distance of sixteen miles with a strong 



58 ELEVENTH ANNUAL REGATTA Q. C. Y. 0. 

breeze. Evidently the Agile lost time at the start by get- 
ting under way on the starboard tack, as she had to put 
about immediately afterwards, and by the time that was 
accomplished the breeze had decreased considerably, while 
further down where the rest were the breeze had not dimin- 
ished. 

The schooners Helen and Avaion passed respectively 
ten and twelve, about half a mile apart, the Carrie Z. being 
between them. The great spread of canvas and their su- 
perior size enabled the two schooners to pass all the others 
on the homeward trip, excepting the first class sloops, which 
had proven their superiority in sailing close-hauled. 

Shortly after the schooners had rounded, the steamers 
caught up with them, thereby presenting to their passengers 
the beautiful sight of two schooners under a perfect cloud of 
canvas rushing through the water and throwing a mass of 
foam from their bows with the wind on the starboard quarter. 

The handsome new schooner, the Avaion, had seven 
sails set viz: mainsail, foresail, jib, jib topsail, flying jib, 
maintopsail and maintop staysail, and all full. Unfortu- 
nately she was lightly ballasted and had almost too much 
sail for her stability as she heeled over considerably more 
than did the Helen, which sat almost upright, and which had 
one additional sail, the fore topsail. The jibs of the Avaion 
were larger than those of the Helen, and they seemed to 
press her head down. As her fore topsail was not shaken out 
to the breeze and as a pole maintopsail was run up, which 



ELEVENTH ANNUAL REGATTA Q. G Y. G. 59 

gave her more sail aft, it is probable her captain did this to 
counteract some of the pressure on the head sails. Perhaps 
her head would have been higher had he taken in the flying 
jib. She was in an excellent condition for a light wind, but 
with the breeze she had, six or eight more tons of ballast 
would probably have made a very different ending to the race. 

Putting on steam the large excursion boat slowly drew 
ahead of this grand sight to the tune of the Mikado Waltz, 
and the crowd of ladies and gentlemen, five hundred or more 
patronized the lunch counter, where sandwiches, pies, cider, 
soda and sarsaparilla were seized with avidity and eaten 
with a hearty appetite, caused by the excitement and the 
fresh breeze. 

Catching up with the Venitzia and Sunbeam, the former 
still ahead with a drooping topsail, the latter just running 
out her spinnaker, as they were in the neighborhood of 
Gloucester, where the river bends and where the wind would 
be astern, the steamer kept their company for awhile. At 
the same time the Venitzia's spinnaker was run out, as her 
captain had made good use of the time since the carrying 
away to hitch a block near the top of what remained of the 
topmast. Through this block the spinnaker halliard was 
reeved, and the spinnaker, with the head doubled up in 'a 
bunch to allow for the difference in the length of the broken 
topmast, had been run up. The stay that supports the spin- 
naker boom, as it runs only to the masthead,was not affected 
by the break. In this fashion she came up first to the flag 



60 ELEVENTH ANNUAL REGATTA Q. G Y. G 

boat, at 2.37.40, amid the cheers of the crowd, the screams of 
the steamboat whistles and the band playing a mad gallop. 
She resembled a big white cumulus cloud dropped from the 
sky and blown across the surface of the water. 

On account of the difference of size between her and the 
Sunbeam, which was pressing close behind, another big 
white cloud, it was necessary for her to get in fifty seven 
seconds ahead of the Sunbeam to win. It was three minutes 
later when the Sunbeam passed, took in her spinnaker and 
gracefully swung around the flag boat. 

Then came the Helen and Avalon with the Minerva 
between, about the same distance apart as they were when 
below Gloucester. But, wonderful to behold, the Avalon had 
set an immense balloon jib, the other jibs having been taken 
in. A few more tons of ballast would have made her even 
with the Helen, without doubt. 

The Nahma, the next boat, was the best in her class. 
The Consort, right after, the best in hers. Unfortunately 
the other yacht of this class, the 01ga,also carried away her 
topsail. After the Consort came the Trenton Minerva. 

With the last yachts came a few drops of rain and after 
cheers and whistle blowings the Thomas Clyde crossed the 
river and landed her passengers at Arch Street wharf, the 
band playing "Home Again." Every one feeling that with 
the cloudy day and good breeze, they had an enjoyable 
time in witnessing the most noble sport of America or of 
the world. 



NAUTICAL TERMS. 



The following is a short list of the terms most frequently used 
by yachtsmen, and are principally the ones used in the foregoing 
pages. When a word has two or more definitions, the one most 
applicable to the management of a sloop yacht is given. 



AFT. Toward the stern. 

AMIDSHIPS. The middle of 
the vessel, in regards either 
to her length or breadth. 

ANCHOR. A heavy iron in- 
strument for holding vessels, 
consisting of a straight shank 
having a ring for fastening the 
chain at one end, and curved 
arms at the other, ending in 
broad, flat flukes; a cross bar is 
attached below the ring at 
right angles with the flukes. 

ASTERN. Behind the vessel; 
toward the after part. 

BAILER. A scoop made of 
leather with a wooden handle. 

BALLAST. Iron or lead placed 
aloug the keel to steady the 
vessel. 

BALLOON JIB. A large jib 
extending from top of fore top 
mast to end of bowsprit or jib 
boom, thence to foremast. 

BEAM. The width from side 
to side; the space between the 
bows and stern. 

BELAY. To fasten a rope by 



twining it diagonally around 

a cleat. 
BIGHT. The bend of a rope 

when it turns on itself; a loop. 
BLOCK. Flat, generally oval, 

pieces of wood, protecting a 

sheave or pulley and used to 

change the direction of a rope 

or to increase the mechanical 

power. 
BOATHOOK. A pole with an 

iron hook and straight prong 

at the end. 
BOLT ROPE. Rope sewed 

around the edges of the sails 

to strengthen them. 
BOOM. The long heavy spar 

to which the foot of fore and 

aft sails are attached. 
BOW. The forward part of a 

vessel 
BOWSPRIT. The spar extend- 
ing forward from the bows to 

which the forestay is attached. 
BROACH TO. To fly up into 

the wind. 
CABLE. A heavy rope for 

anchoring, made by twisting 



61 



62 



NAUTICAL TERMS. 



three or four ordinary ropes. 
CANVAS. General term for 

the sails. 
CARVEL BUILT. The planks 

laid edge to edge. 
CENTREBOARD. A heavy 

broad board that is let down 

through the bottom of a vessel 

to prevent her from making 

leeway. 
CLEAT. Piece of wood or iron 

attached to the deck or spars 

for fastening ropes to. 
CLINKER BUILT. The 

planks lapping. 
CLOSE HAULED. Sailing as 

near as possible against the 

wind. 
COUNTER. The curving part 

of stern. 
CRINGLE. Loop of rope 

worked into the bolt rope of a 

sail, to assist in reefing. 
CUTTER, A fast-sailing sloop- 
rigged vessel, with reducible 

bowsprit. 
DECK. The upper flooring of 

the hull. 
DOWN. To leeward. 
EBB TIDE. The falling tide. 
FLEET. A number of vessels 

keeping in company. 
FLOOD TIDE. The rising tide. 
FLOTILLA. Fleet of small 

vessels. 
FLUKES. The broad plates 

on the arms of the anchor. 
FORE. The foremost. 
FORESAIL. The principal sail 

on a foremast ; on cutters the 

sail set on the forest ay. 
FORWARD. In the direction 



of the bows. 

FURL. To take in altogether 
and bind a sail to its spar. 

GAFF. The spar that extends 
the tops of fore and aft sails. 

GIG. A light, narrow boat. 

GOING ABOUT. Tacking. 

GOING FREE. With the 
wind on the beam. 

GOING LARGE. Sailing with 
the wind on the quarter. 

GROMMET. A ring of rope. 
I GUNWALE. The uppermost 
planking that finishes off the 
hull. 
I GYBING. The action of the 
wind when astern in swinging 
the boom over from one side 
of the yacht to the other. 

HALLIARDS. Ropes used to 
hoist the sails. 

HAWSER. A large rope ten 
inches in circumference or less; 
when of larger size it is desig- 
nated a cable. 

HELM. The tiller and its con- 
nections, the wheel, chain, etc. 

HITCH. A species of knot. 

HULL. The body of a vessel. 

JAWS. The semicircular end 
of a gaff or boom. 

JIB. Large triangular sail set 
on the fore stay in sloops and 
very useful in tacking. 

JIB TOPSAIL. The sail next 
forward of the jib. 

KEDGE. A small anchor. 

KEEL. The heavy lowermost 
timber running the full length 
of the vessel to which the stem 
and stern posts are secured and 
also the ribs. 



NAUTICAL TERMS. 



63 



LARBOARD. Left side look- 
ing toward the bow; port. 

LASHED. Bound with a rope. 

LEAD. A conical weight used 
for sounding. 

LEE. The side opposite to that 
from which the wind is blow- 
ing. 

LEEBOARDS. Boards hang- 
ing over the leeward side of a 
small boat to reduce leewav. 

LEECH. The aftermost part 
of a fore and aft sail. 

LEEWAY. Drift sideways 
while sailing w T ith wind on 
beam or bow. 

LIFE LINES. Lines attached 
to the bottom of unballasted 
boats to which the crew hold 
on and lean backward when 
the wind is on the beam. 

LUFF. To head more to the 
windward; the foremost part 
of a fore and aft sail. 

LYING TO. Keeping the ves- 
sel's head steady under re- 
duced sail so as to make little 
headway. 

MAIN. Principal or largest. 

MARLINE , Small line lightly 
twisted, used for bending sails, 
etc. 

MAST. The heavy, upright 
timber supporting the spars 
and sails. 

MIZZEN. Aftermost. 

MOOR. Strictly speaking to se- 
cure by two anchors to prevent 
being swung by the tide. 

MOORINGS. A chain attached 
to a block of stone or heavy 
anchors, permanently sunk, to 



which vessels make fast; the 
free end of chain is located 
by a buoy. 

OAR. A long cylindrical piece 
of wood, one end expanding 
into a broad thin blade; for 
propelling small boats. 

PAINTER. Rope attached to 
the bows of a boat for mak- 
ing her fast or towing. 

PEAK. The upper, after end 
of a fore and aft sail. 

PORT. Left hand side of a ves- 
sel looking forward; used in 
preference to larboard to pre- 
vent confusion and mistakes. 

REEF. To reduce sail. 

REEF PENNANT. Rope for 
securing after end of sail when 

REEF POINTS. Small pieces 
of cordage fastened to the sail 
to diminish size, by tying 
around spar. 

REEVE. To pass a rope through 
an aperature, as a block or 
deadeve. 

RIGGING. The ropes of a 
vessel; running rigging for 
managing the sails, and stand- 
ing rigging for staying the 
masts and spars. 

RINGBOLT. An iron ring 
fastened to the deck by a bolt. 

ROWLOCK. The attachment 
on the gunwale in which the 
oars work. 

RUDDER. The flat timber at- 
tached to the sternpost by 
which the vessel's course is 
governed. 

RUDDER POST. Post run- 



64 



NAUTICAL TERMS. 



ning through the counter to 
which the tiller is affixed. 

RUN. Bottom of the yacht be- 
neath the floor of the cockpit. 

SADDLE. Block of wood at- 
tached to the mast to support 
the boom. 

SCAG. The narrow part of 
stern forward of rudder. 

SCHOONER. A fore and aft 
vessel having two or three 

SEA ANCHOR. Sails and 
spars tied together and thrown 
overboard to prevent drifting. 

SERVE. To wind yarn around 
a rope. 

SEIZE . To fasten two portions 
of a rope by lashing. 

SHEET. Rope that is used in 
altering the position of a sail. 

SLACK. Loose. 

SLOOP. A fore and aft vessel 
with single mast and standing 
bowsprit. 

SPAR. General term for mast, 
yard, boom, etc. 

SPINNAKER. Large sail ex- 
tended by a light boom on the 
side opposite to the mainsail 
while running before the wind. 

SPRIT. A light spar attached 
to the mast by a beckot and 
extending the peak of the sail; 
used on small boats. 

SPRITSAIL. A sail extended 
by a sprit. 

SQUALL. A sudden transi- 
tory storm. 

STARBOARD. To the right 
hand looking forward. 

STAYS, Ropes used to steady 



the standing spars. 

STEP. To set up a mast. 

STERN. The after part of a 
vessel. 

STORM TRYSAIL. Triangu- 
lar sail lashed to the mast in 
place of the mainsail while 
scudding. 

S T R A K E . Plank running 
lengthwise in the side of a 
vessel. 

TACK. To proceed against the 
wind. 

TACKLE. A purchase by 
blocks and ropes. 

TAUT. Tight. [boat. 

TENDER. A yacht's small 

THROAT. The portion of the 
gaff next the mast. 

THWARTS. The seats ex- 
tending across a rowboat. 

TIDE. A periodical movement 
of the sea. 

TILLER. The lever by which 
the rudder is turned. 

TRIM. To set the sail or ar- 
range the ballast to advantage. 

TRUNK. The part of the cabin 
that extends above the deck. 

TRUSS. A support for the 
boom while a,t anchor. 

UP. To windward. 

WEAR. To change direction 
of wind over the stern. 

WEATHER. To windward. 

WELL. The boxing which en- 
closes the centreboard. 

YACHT. Light, fast sailing 
vessel, used for pleasure or 
racing. 

YAWL RIG. The rig of a sloop 
with a small mizzen mast. 



LJBRARY OF CONGRESS * 

019 313 837 8 1 



